The Folklore, Fire, and Future
Click here to read El Alma Del Salto (part I).
*This blog and audio recording contain profanities*
*This blog and audio recording contain profanities*
The history of climbing locations is often passed by word of mouth—chronologies get muddled, “he-said, she-said” reigns, and the best parts fall through cracks of selective memory.
After my first season in El Salto I heard names (Kika, Ulric…) and legends—mariposas of hidden treasures, cartel tales—flutter around conversations, leaving me curious.
In Jan 2022, climbers and I asked Ramon to host a dinner so we could learn El Salto’s origins. Fifteen American, Canadian, and European climbers joined the potluck at his kitchen.
Interview with Ramon, Carlos, and Rodrigo
Karly: When did you each first trek to La Cienéga de González?
Ramon: “Para mí, 1999.”
Carlos: “Roughly 2008.”
Karly: What was your first impression?
Ramon: “Holy fucking shit!”
Karly: What was it like 22 years ago?
Ramon: “So quiet. No four-wheelers, no tourism—just Kika’s store and fresh elotes.”
Karly: When was the first route bolted?
Carlos: “1997. Las Animas first—Quesadilla (5.12c), then La Boca with Hijo de Puta, Honeybear, Lounge Puppy…”
Karly: When did the “gringos” show up?
Ramon: “About five years ago.”
Carlos: “Alien Tufa, Body Grooving, Echando Raises, Muchos Conjurios.”
Karly: What makes you live here?
Carlos: “Rock quality—huge concentration 5.12–5.14.”
Ramon: “Best crag in North America. Fresh air and my own pace.”
The Fire of 2021
Karly: How did the fire unfold?
Ramon: “Climbing in La Boca all afternoon, masks on for smoke. By night, temperatures soared, ash filled the air. Mango’s WhatsApp blew up—fire above Kika’s. We left at 11:30 PM, out by 2 AM.”
Carlos: “I was in Mexico City—road closed. Walked in underwear, saw helicopters. Locals lit back-burns to stop it. Firefighters did nothing.”
The Future
Karly: How many permanent residents?
Carlos: “About 25–30.”
Karly: What changes worry you?
Carlos: “Loud four-wheelers and razors.”
Ramon: “Still safe—no theft. Money from tourism helps.”
Karly: Looking ahead, what must stay the same?
Ramon: “This community—fifteen people cooking dinner in my cabin. That’s what matters more than climbing.”
Carlos: “We want to help maintain the area—bolts are here for anyone to rebolt and care for these walls.”