Infierno del Dante (5.13c/8a+): A Spiritual Ascent
Streaks of orange and gray rip down the wall—sculpting tufas like gargoyles over the canyon. Wind passes like secrets from tree to tree; suspending my attention skyward. I feel I am not alone. Las Animas (The Spirits), the namesake of the crag, are here too.
This place holds everyone that has been here before me. I can feel it. It feels like it holds everyone that is to come after me too. And, while I may occupy this space for a sliver of time, I am just a blink of an eye to Las Animas. My time here will fold over like the waves of tufas around me, absorbing more than one moment can hold. At most, I am a nameless thread in the loom of Las Animas.
Most routes follow the Las Animas theme—Muchos Conjuros, Ojo de la Mente, Purgatorio—all leading up to the towering classic: Infierno del Dante (5.13c/8a+). It’s notoriously run-out, spanning 100+ ft of rolled tufas, biting crimps, and near-frictionless slopers to the chains.
Infierno del Dante, Photo by Galina Parfenov
Photo by Galina Parfenov
Infierno del Dante, Photo by James Lucas
Photo by James Lucas
The sustained route combines a compression boulder at the start, a precision deadpoint mid-wall, and a comp-style boulder on flowstone at the chains. You need power as much as endurance—quick in places, measured in others. I’m convinced you need Las Animas’ permission to send.
Training strength, Photo by Galina Parfenov
Photo by Galina Parfenov
I first tried it in Feb 2023—pulled the moves quickly but burned out after the second crux. To climb 30 ft of 5.12+ after two boulders, I needed to train my bigger muscle groups. Over a year, I logged 120+ barbell sessions—bench, row, pull, deadlift—so I could pull at required rate on redpoint.
Photos by James Lucas
I treated the deadpoint as a “starting gun,” speeding through sustained 5.12+—climb fast between rests. Yet, mental pressure stayed: I “needed” it. Turns out, if you need it, you can’t have it.
Reflecting before send, Photo by James Lucas
Photo by James Lucas
Balancing desire and detachment is the real crux. I learned to let go of need-to-send, climbed a warmup, then sent Dante with calm flow—no thoughts, just the rock.
Kneebar rest before chains, Photo by James Lucas
Kneebar at the final rest—Photo by James Lucas
Throughout projecting, the local community holds the spirit of El Salto. I helped replace anchors on Unga Bunga (5.11+) with Joel and the American State Climbing Association—small acts to sustain the crag.
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