A Look Inside the 2023 Myorcan Expansion

Go big…then go bigger

Like all the uber-classic Myorcan shapes, the 2023 Myorcan Expansion Pack is inspired by the flowstone calcite drips that form on some of the world’s best limestone crags like Kalymnos and Leonidio in Greece, the innumerable cliffs of Catalonia in Spain, Tonsai Beach in Thailand, and, of course, the spectacular deep water soloing destination of Mallorca, Spain. These formations create iconic holds varying from tiny fingertip pinches up to giant tufas that stretch hundreds of vertical feet. In adding shapes to the Myorcan style for 2023, our focus was to go big – and then even bigger – with 10 new holds that are all size 6, 7, or 8.

23 Feet Of Epic Holds

Although there are only 10 new holds in this expansion, they give routesetters plenty of surface area to work with…23 feet to be precise. Here’s a quick look at the sets in this expansion:

Myorcan Giant Rails Five big tufas that are tall, narrow, and long, ranging from sloping on both sides to incut on both sides. These relatively narrow-grip pinches are similar to the existing Myorcan Tufas II, only 3 to 4 times longer. Gently tapered ends make for difficult foot placement in vertical orientations, which can force sequences that require pinching the hold between both feet, a technique that is unique to tufa climbing.

Holds in this set range from 30″ – 32″ long and 3″ – 4.5″ wide

Myorcan Protrusions

Three large, bulging tufas that have a diverse range of utility. With a wide radius rolling into deep incuts, these shapes can be used as buckets in the certain orientations or rotated to make for pumpy and powerful moves.

Holds in this set range from 11″ – 14″ long and 16″ – 19.5″ wide

Myorcan Super Tufa

Myorcan Giant Tufa

As the largest and most positive shape in the 2023 Myorcan Expansion Pack, the Super Tufa is one massive tufa with multiple grip options along side-by-side columns. One side is slightly incut with a couple of sweet spots, where the other side is more incut and feels juggy on almost any angle.

This hold measures 36″ long and 10.5″ wide

A wide-grip tufa pinch that varies in its length from flat to slightly incut. This shape is useful for moderate grades on slab to slight overhang and will create a wicked pump on steep walls.

This hold measures 34″ long and 5″

PU
Black – 1801
Blue – 1301
Moss Green – 1608
Bright Pink – 1126
Cappuccino – 1117
Bright Green – 1629
Charcoal – 1803
Dark Blue – 1314
Taupe – 1111
Dark Green – 1613
Dark Purple – 1716
Dark Red – 1101
Dark Yellow – 1501
Day-Glo Blue – 1318
Day-Glo Green – 1618
Day-Glo Orange – 1411
Day-Glo Pink – 1125
Day-Glo Yellow – 1509
Dune – 1506
Gray – 1809
Green – 1616
Soft Lavender – 1719
Light Brown – 1130
Light Gray – 1812
Light Purple – 1718
Light Red – 1124
Lime Green – 1609
Melon – 1406
Orange – 1401
Soft Pink – 1120
Purple – 0713
Red – 1112
Sandstone – 1109
Sea Foam – 1626
Sedona – 1404
Tan – 1514
Teal – 1324
Ocean Blue – 1315
White – 1201
Yellow – 1512

GRP
Brown – DT-K1
Jet Black – DT-H1
Leaf Green – DT-C1
Lime Green – DT-C4
Magenta – DT-F2
Ice Mint – DT-B5
Malachite – DT-E1
Pure Green – DT-C2
Pure Orange – DT-E2
Purple – DT-G2
Signal Blue – DT-B2
Silver – DT-J1
Sky Blue – DT-B1
Traffic Red – DT-F1
Traffic Yellow – DT-D2
Turquoise – DT-B4
Violet – DT-G1
White – DT-A1
Flou Pink – DT-F0
Zinc Yellow – DT-D1

GRU
Black – 1801
Blue – 1301
Bright Pink – 1126
Dark Green – 1613
Day-Glo Pink – 1125
Gray – 1809
Red – 1112
White – 1201
Yellow – 1512

ABS
White/Black – W-1801
White/Blue – W-1301
White/Hot Pink – W-1126

GRP - PU Best Color Matches
Traffic Red – DT-F1		Red – 1112
Magenta – DT-F2		Bright Pink – 1126
Pure Orange – DT-E2		Orange – 1401
Zinc Yellow – DT-D1		Yellow – 1512
Lime Green – DT-C4		Green – 1616
Sky Blue – DT-B1		Blue – 1301
Purple – DT-G2		Purple – 0713
White – DT-A1		White – 1201
Jet Black – DT-H1		Black – 1801