Daniel Brayak | Ten Sleep Canyon

After another harrowing drive from Denver to Ten Sleep Canyon (after 30 hours in the car) we rolled up to the canyon at sunset.  We poked around for a while and could not find a suitable campsite so we just kinda picked a so-so spot on the side of the road then promptly moved camp the next morning to the pay site - Leigh creek which is actually quite nice (and inexpensive splitting the $13 a day fee 4 ways.)

"Hunting Wolverines" 5.11c Photo: Julia Statler

 We climbed our first day at the "Home Alone" crag which boasted a 1 minute approach.  They weren't kidding.  You literally walk from your car, right into this corridor.   Most of the routes were quite good, though a little ambiguous.  I blew the flash, but managed to second-go "Always Keep it Loaded." 5.12a.
Our second day, we decided to step up the hike a bit and check out the "Ice Plant" crag.  I am still getting use to "limestone" and the style of climbing here, so I decided to do another day of easy routes, though I managed to flash "Dragonfly" 5.11d which actually felt more like 11a.  I did another route "Hunting Wolverines" 5.11c which felt more like 12a!!  I was happy to squeak through the flash on that one!

"Dragon Fly" 5.11d Julia Statler Photo

Our third day, we returned to the Circus Wall, which is just up the hill from the "Ice Plant" both of which are am Shade crags.  I did the classic "Circus in the Wind" 5.11a which is a MUST DO if you are coming to ten-sleep.  I did one burn on "Circus in my Pants" 5.12d.  I think I can probably do this route if I spent some time on it and I may spend some time on it, but on a trip like these (we only have two weeks) I'd rather stick to routes that I can onsite or second-try.


As the sun peaked over, we decided to head to the "Valhalla" Wall which is accessed by a REALLY NASTY LONG HEINOUS STEEP AND SUNNY HILL!!.  Its not that bad...but really.  The hike is pretty bad.  Once I got the the crag, however, I decided that I was not going to climb at "Home Alone" ever again!  This area is where its at....I did there 5.11s, all onsite and flash, include the 5 star classics "Hanoi Hilton" 5.11d (onsite) and "Bikini Girls w/Machine Guns" 5.11a/b (onsite.)

Lena Moinova onsiting "Circus in the Wind 5.11a" Photo: Julia Statler

Bikinin Girls w/Machine Guns is the most manufactured route I've ever climbed on...well OK maybe not but close, but MAN what good climbing.  The route climbs aesthetic moves up this vertical wall on perfectly (drilled) two finger pockets.  WHAT A CLASSIC!!!

Bob Value working "Fun Stripe"